Stripping Layers: "Neti Neti," a Poem by Kabir, and the heart of Bangkok

Chasing summer sun,
stripping off layers to see
what does not remain

I wrote this haiku while embarking on my first solo trip to Thailand. It's based on the concept of "Neti Neti," a Sanskrit phrase that translates to something like "Not this, not that". The phrase acts as a gentle reminder to question who we truly are by identifying the things we are not.

The concept goes a little something like this...

We often identify ourselves with the material world, but even if we changed our name, our job, or where we lived, we'd still be the same awareness behind it all. We may identify with our bodies, but even then, if we gained or lost a few pounds, or even lost a limb, we'd still be the same behind it all.

Likewise with our thoughts and feelings. All of these are transient. We can hold such strong identification with any given thought, or quietly have infinitely more small thoughts as we try to meditate, but in the end, they all come and pass like trains at the station. When we spiral into negative thought patterns we can come back to the concept of "Not this, not that" and understand our true nature is much more than temporary noise.

I can't say I've found the answer to "Who am I?" but "Neti Neti" has helped me uncover who I'm not by spotting the effects that my experiences and social conditioning have had on me, like the desire to fit in, or play it safe. Spotting these false beliefs is such an important first step. No longer "identifying" with these old patterns is trickier, really gets to the crux of our own journey within, and requires taking action — whatever that may be, like dancing silly in public, or just taking the time to truly sit with how you're feeling.

Lastly, I say all this with a caveat... when we question who we really are, we may understand our true nature to be something deeper than the material, manifested world. From my experience, this can be both liberating but also a bit gloomy, leading us to a sort of "what's the point in it all?". It's important to remember the physical world is a masterstroke of beauty that's set to be enjoyed, warts n'all! The phrase just gently encourages us to question where our real 'home' is, who we really are, and the ongoing space we can always come back to for peace and happiness.

Now for some of the real stuff.

Kabir - I Said to the Wanting Creature Inside Me

I said to the wanting-creature inside me: 
What is this river you want to cross? 
There are no travelers on the river-road, and no road. 
Do you see anyone moving about on that bank, or resting?   

There is no river at all, and no boat, and no boatman. 
There is no tow rope either, and no one to pull it. 
There is no ground, no sky, no time, no bank, no ford!  

And there is no body, and no mind! 
Do you believe there is some place that will make the
soul less thirsty? 
In that great absence you will find nothing.   

Be strong then, and enter into your own body; 
there you have a solid place for your feet. 
Think about it carefully! 
Don't go off somewhere else!    

I just think this poem so beautifully captures how external pursuits can cause you to get stuck in a loop of always wanting to seek more. Will our external pursuits truly 'quench the thirst of the soul'? Rather than material "success" it's more to do with finding our soul's manifested purpose. Then we can find that excited connection with the manifested world I was talking about.

Bangkok

So many people like to get out of the big cities as soon as they can, but Bangkok is full of cultural heritage and I loved it.

Some of my favourite things included:

1. Wat Arun. A very iconic and photographable temple, particularly at sunset. Grab a cheap boat ferry to get across to the temple. On the way back you can even get a rooftop drink/food overlooking the river and temple. Prices are expensive for Bangkok but a mocktail and snacks are what I opted for.

   

2. Wat Pho & Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha). So much to say about this and will get its own post later down-the-line. In short: it's a must!

   

3. Ari. It's a very trendy, chilled-out neighbourhood in Bangkok that's said to be a bit like Shoreditch. Lots of good coffee shops and I remember visiting a cool gallery. Great place if you're a remote worker.

   

4. Street food (anywhere!) but I really enjoyed what I ate in and around the Chinatown area. I also visited a very cool cafe/bar around here called Wallflowers Cafe, it's set over 3 floors with a vintage feel and understated rooftop.

   

5. Chatuchak Weekend Market. It really has everything you could ever need and it's easy to get lost in its web of narrow alleyways, sprawling with the goods of various shopkeepers. You could deck your whole house and wardrobe out here.

   

6. Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market. South-east of Bangkok and probably the favourite thing I did in my time there. Cross the river from Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market, hire a bicycle, stop off at the very cool and welcoming coffee shop you'll find on the left of the first main road, and then casually meander through the streets. Don't miss Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden for monitor lizards and birdsong. And last of all, make your way to the market for all the crazy food stalls, being sure not to miss the network of small, narrow path cycle routes that take you off the road, off the ground, and amongst the tropical trees and gardens.

   

Getting a grab taxi bike is an experience too (these guys know how to ride!) and you can’t go wrong tracking down a rooftop pool at a fancy hotel if that’s more your thing.

What are your favourite things to do in Bangkok? Has “Neti, Neti” helped you? I’d love to hear your interpretations of my haiku and Kabir’s poem.

I hope you enjoyed the read. Subscribe with your email to get notified of my next posts.